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Installing Bath Taps and Shower Taps

For the most part, bath valves and shower valves are installed within a wall before the bath or shower is set in place. This means that the handle(s) and escutcheon plates) will need to be installed after the shower or bath is in place. Most have a neoprene gasket that keeps water from penetrating behind the plate, but some will also need a bead of silicone caulk. If I use caulk, I'll leave an opening at the bottom of the plate to allow water that gets in behind to drain out. If there are conventional fluted stems and handles such as you might find on an older shower valve, it isn't a bad idea to apply some waterproof valvestem grease to help prevent corrosion.

Plastic bath spouts that slip over a 1/2-in. copper bathe aren't very strong, but often they need to be because spouts are used as grab bars by adults (and shimmy bars by children). Brass or castiron nipples and chromed-brass spouts are stronger, though they can require some fussy fitting to get the right nipple length. The spout should rest flush and tightly against the finish wall, but if it doesn't, try a shorter nipple or make a copper nipple with two copper, male iron pipe adapters. Before final installation, wrap Teflon tape around the male threads of the nipple, spread pipe dope on the female threads, and pack the cavity of the spout with putty. Sometimes the spout can be tightened sufficiently by hand, but a large-diameter wooden dowel inserted in the spout hole makes a good handle for more leverage. Be careful not to tighten the spout too much, though, as the 90° elbow inside the wall can crack.

Deck-mounted taps for baths are installed essentially like sink taps. Access may be a little more difficult, and anyone drilling holes in a £1,000 bath should rightfully feel a little queasy. Again, plumber's putty should be packed in tap cavities and at the through bath or through-deck connection.